DSLR Cameras: I'm starting to use RAW - what basic steps should I do in post-process?
Here's my general workflow... While shooting an event or location where I'll be taking a lot of photos I will include a camera calibration shot. I use X-Rite Colorchecker Passport for this. Datacolor has a similar product but I tend to prefer the X-Rite model. If shooting conditions change I will take another calibration shot and generally use a different folder or card. I import just my calibration shots to Lightroom and use the X-Rite plugin to create custom camera calibration(s) for the shoot. I also set the baseline white balance and exposure corrections off the X-Rite shot(s) along with any lens or noise corrections and save these settings. I import the photos from the shoot (RAW) and apply the baseline settings on import. This will have the color really close for all the shots without any real work required. I do not convert to DNG format at this time because some specialized processes require Camera Raw. My next step is to keyword all the photos from the shoot. While doing this I toss any shots that have obvious problems. I keyword to organize the photos early-on... If you put this off you likely will continue to put-off and wind up with a pile of unorganized photos. Next I begin to work the photos in Lightroom. If I run into a difficult photo that is beyond Lightroom's capabilities I will work it in other programs. Favorites here are DxO Optics (best for bringing out shadow detail heavy noise reduction and lens corrections) or Photoshop (panoramic stitching detailed corrections and a host of plugins). By far most of my photos are processed in Lightroom alone. After processing I archive the shoot to DVDs including the Lightroom catalog. I consider this to be equivalent to storing the film from a shoot. I should also note that my working storage is RAID 6 and that I take frequent backups that I rotate offsite monthly. I will generally use an external lab for printing and use SmugMug as my online gallery. When I print I first use Nik's output sharpener tuned to my printer and media. The print improvement is noticeable.
What’s your photography workflow for editing?
The Concept There is definitely a relationship between editing and shooting I noticed that more time I spent in shooting the less time I need for editing so my editing workflow really starts early at shooting. I learnt how to notice the background and move a bit for better background or remove unwanted distracting elements in the field is much easier than doing this in Photoshop. The same principal is applied in lighting andposition. So my first step is to imagine how this photo will look when I edit it and trying to minimize the effort earlier. The How I shoot in RAW and manual setup started to edit with lightroom years ago to somehow it was limited didn give me the functions I needed my photos was horrible at that time and used to spent like a whole day to edit one single photo. Like most beginners I wanted to apply every filter and maximize everything as a result I produce even worst photos. Then I started to learn Photoshop my editing improved dramatically now I can edit my photo within 15 to 2 minutes. But How I do this. The actual workflow I usually take several shots for the same subject portrait or macro or wedding whatever project Im on few shots and examining each one in the field then move to the next one. On theputer I import the files into Lightroom Examine the different shots of the projectpare theposition sharpness and pick the best of them or reject all (which is very rare). Immediately I check if the photo needs straightening or not. Then I start by lens correction then the basics module where I do White Balance and the tone I always start with Auto in both and start from there and try different options (by time you get to know the best time for soft natural light and shoot at that time) then I move to Camera Calibration and try all the profiles and select the right one for that photo. Then I export the file to Photoshop. These simple steps can be done directly in Photoshop but as a habit I used to do it in Lightroom. Once Im in Photoshop I apply the first golden rule of editing Think global and apply local meaning I look to the photo and decide what it needs to express my message or vision. If it needs more light I don apply more light to the entire photo I search again where exactly it needs more light and then apply it locally. It is also important here to have a clear idea about what do you want to do with this photo? What is your artistic vision toward it how you would it be like? I usually start by cleaning process (dust unwanted distracting elements cropping if needed). Then enhancing the colors by using curves. If the photo is noisy I export it to Nik collection and use define2 (great app) The Second golden rule is Less is more I apply the minimum of whatever Im adding light shadows sharpening etc. In most cases any addition depends on the photo condition and your vision toward it. My best advice here is to learn how to select in different ways once you know how to select anything properly you can do wonders. I believe this is about 9% of my workflow the rest is sharpening and I use high pass filter for that you will be surprised to know that I don save my works as TIF or PSD once edited I export a JPG file of it and then delete the work Unless I want to keep a copy for future use which is very rare.
How do you achieve this textured effect in Adobe Photoshop and/or Illustrator?
Everyone has their own techniques. I find the best ones are the ones that allow you to endlessly modify parameters of the illustration without being destructive to the mainponents of the illustration. This allows you to go back and tweak theposition until you're happy with the results. This illustration uses a lot of noise that can be applied parametrically in Photoshop. By parametric italic I mean that the noise is added in a way that allows you to increase or decrease it or change the method in which it is applied at anytime. You can even turn it off and on or delete it without affecting the layer it is applied to. To see how it is used in the ampersand illustration lets start by deconstructing the illustration element by element. (For this example I'm going to ignore the little pyramid shapes.) The mainponents of the illustration are the background and the ampersand. The ampersand has several dimensional surfaces and both the background and the face of the ampersand have shapes that look like they're cut-out paper. I used Illustrator to recreate the shapes I need for the 3D ampersand. The closest font I have is Clarendon Black.n I converted it to outlines and added a stroke and no fill. Then I expanded the stroke to outlines so I could extrude the outlines using the extrusion tool.n Ultimately I wanted to break down the shapes so that the different surfaces were on different layers. I expanded the 3D object andbined the front faces of the stroke shape as a single object. I made a shape for the front face. I did the same for the outer sides (including the holes) and the inner sides that touch the front. I put each set of surfaces on their own layer in Illustrator. When I was done I had this (These are color coded to show how they are grouped)n Only the shapes are important. The colors will be changed in Photoshop. I pasted each layer into Photoshop as a Smart . In Photoshop I hid all the layers except the background to begin. For the background I stared with a simple gradient fill layer.n At the very top of my layers palette I added another fill layer with a grey solid of 5% black. I make that layer a smart object and set the layer mode to overlay. When it is set to overlay the 5% gray disappears. I then used the Add Noise filter to create some noise. Because this is a smart object I can go back and edit the amount of noise at anytime.n I also noticed in the original illustration some random flecks similar to what you would see in recycled paper. So I Googled Recycled Paper Texture and went to of white recycled paper and opened it in Photoshop and immediately made a ure with it using EditDefine Texture Then I created new pattern fill layer at the very top of my Layers Palette and picked the recycled paper ure. I adjusted the scale opacity to approximate the example and I set the layer mode to multiply.n nStarting with the outside outlines I pasted from Illustrator as a Smart n I added a color overlay using the layers styles icon at the lower left of the layers palette. I made the color gradient from a dark muted red at the bottom to a lighter muted red at the top.n I also added an inner shadow. I made sure to increase the noise setting of the inner shadow layer effect.n nOne by one I turned on the different layers containing the different surfaces and applied a gradient overlay and inner shadow until I got to this point.n Using the vector tool I drew a series of paths for each layer of cutout papern Using those shapes I created more gradient fill layers and added an Inner Shadow and Bevel & Emboss layer effect.n To confine the paper cutouts to the front face I created a layer group with the different gradient fill layers and masked it with a selection I got by cmd-Clicking on the Front Face layer in the layer palette. I also added an Inner Shadow layer style to the layer groupn n To make the large drop shadow under the Ampersand I started by making a selection based on the entire ampersand by shift-cmd-clicking on all the layers that make up the ampersand in the layers palette and use that selection make a vector mask applied to a new Curves Adjustment layer. I left the curves unadjusted but applied a drop shadow to it. Once again I made sure to adjust the noise to match the graininess of the rest of the illustration. I also added a few more gradient overlays to the corners in the extruded sides. And Ipleted the illustration by adding the paper cutout to the background similar to the ones on the front face of the ampersand.n nThe virtue of this method of creating a Photoshopposition is that it ispletely nondestructive. You can go back and edit any of the parameters at anytime. And you can scale this image up without loss of quality (because the resolution of the noise is pixel based it will remain so but all the other parameters can scale with the new size). You can download this file and explore all the settings by following this n s s
How can I watermark 100+ of my new photos at once?
In Photoshop set up an action then run a batch convert. Open the actions palette create a new one and give it a name (eg. watermark'). Start recording' the action. Then go ahead and add the watermark (and anything else you need to do to the stop recording the action. This will now be listed in your actions palette. Then just use the batch convertmand. Make sure your action name is selected point it at the folder of all your photos you want it applied to and press run'. Then sit back and watch Photoshop do all the hard work in seconds.
How do I put a watermark on a photo without Photoshop?
Ideally you want to use a .PNG file for your watermark. You would have already created with transparent pixels in the locations where you want to be able to see the original s when you export them. From there it is a simple checkbox on an export when you do or do not want a watermark. Some photo sharing web sites will apply them .PNG you provide them at viewing time so viewers can copy your photos without the watermark on them. The site however takes the watermark off if it is printing them images to fulfill an order.
Is there a photo editing app (web or desktop) that will automatically crop out the black bars in a letterbox (or pillarbox) image grabbed from a movie?
Yes. ImageMagick will do that for you. Here is a to the main ImageMagick page Convert Edit Or Compose Bitmap Images #trim There are various ways to implement ImageMagick. You can use themand-line or use it through a package attached to something like Adobe Lightroom Add Watermarks Border and Text Annotions to Images Exported by Adobe Lightroom 2 . Photoshop's ImageTrimmand can also do this for you but it depends on the black bars in the image being one continuous tone; otherwise it will only trim contiguous pixels of the sampled color. ImageMagick's Trim function has a fuzziness option which may be able to get all of the bars in one go.
Why do web developers learn Photoshop?
I believe a web developer is more valuable with photo editing skills. Photoshop is good maybe the best but it always been pricey and theyve priced themselves out of reach of lots of folks by moving to a subscription-based licensing scheme. GIMP is almost as good and it free. Windows Paint the Mac photo editor and other free options can do the basics of resizing adding transparencypressing and converting TIFF or other print-oriented with a big Blur brush to simulate a shallow depth of focus to make the subject pop out of lots of distracting details. I suspect Photoshop smart lasso tool might work better but GIMP is my go to photo editor because I know it better. It also valuable to have a working knowledge of graphics capabilities of server-side scripting languages like PHP _majick functions or the Python graphics libraries for processing s that need to be resizedpressed or maybe watermarked or branded it tedious to do it by hand and could be done in minutes with a little bit of code. Ive kept and re-used for decades little scripts to do these tasks. Several web apps I tend will take a large uploaded s once when theyre uploaded rather than thousands of times when they put out to pages to save CPU band on a busy server. If it important for somebody to get the full-sized that was uploaded. Having said all that I worked for a couple of seasons doing the technical side of a website for a non-for-profit organization. He a seasoned photographer and web developer not so much on coding the back end stuff but really puts up good looking stuff. When I met him he was about 6 months into an experiment to do everything he did on a ChromeBook. He found free sites on-line and an inexpensive one I don recollect and could do everything he needed to do. I don know if he gone back to his desktop with PhotoShop with which he was expert but after another 6 months of working together all I saw came through that ChromeBook. Don shirk on photo editing tools find free ones or pay for the best is my opinion
How do I remove watermark from an image?
Set up an action that contains a simple Levels Adjustment Layer italic ! As others have pointed out - this is illegal in most cases italic . That being said it an exciting challenge! I guess you have permission from the owner of the photos. Good! It all depends on theplexity of the watermark. Two toned or color logos are hard. Let assume it white with opacity set to 5%. The hard part would be to create a mask based on the original watermark. You would then use it to cancel-out the watermarks you wish to remove. Create the mask by going through the s where the watermark is on a solid white or black background . You might need to use parts from different s. Zooming in youll notice some fine outlines where the watermark used to be. These are easy to clean up You can probably modify the mask and use reduce noise to effectively kill it. PS A part of me is writing this to encourage photographers to make their watermarks harder to crack though with the content-aware tools available today removing watermarks perfectly is easier than ever. italic To avoid having your watermarks removed by batch don put it on the same location for all your photos. Mix it up.